Quick Answer: To block up a fifth wheel, level it side to side first, then front to back, add frame blocking for longer stays, and finish by stabilizing the camper. Use proper leveling blocks, wheel chocks, and wood buffers between concrete blocks and the steel frame. If you're setting up your fifth wheel for a season, a permanent site, or even just a long weekend, getting the blocking right matters more than most owners realize. Blocking isn't just about comfort. It protects your frame, keeps your slides running smoothly, and prevents the kind of shifting that can crack pipes or throw off your appliances. This guide walks through how to block up a fifth wheel the right way, whether you're leveling for a few nights or setting up for a seasonal stay.Key TakeawaysAlways level a fifth wheel side to side before unhitching and adjusting the front-to-back level.Seasonal or permanent setups may need pier blocks or treated lumber placed along the frame for added support.Never use stabilizer jacks to lift or level the trailer because they are designed only to reduce movement.Avoid loose bricks, unsecured cinder blocks, and direct concrete-to-steel contact when building your support points.Check long-term blocking periodically because rain, freezing temperatures, and settling soil can change the trailer's level over time.Browse fifth wheels for sale on Pop Sells when you're ready to buy your next RV or list your current one.What Does It Mean to Block Up a Fifth Wheel?Blocking up a fifth wheel means using leveling blocks, pier blocks, or lumber to raise, level, and support the trailer once it's parked. There are really two versions of this job. The first is basic leveling, something every fifth wheel owner does at nearly every stop, using blocks under the tires and the landing gear to get the rig sitting flat. The second is more involved: blocking for a seasonal or permanent site, where owners add support piers along the frame to reduce movement and take some of the day-to-day stress off the suspension.Both jobs use similar materials, but the goals are different. Basic leveling gets your RV comfortable and functional for a stay. Permanent blocking is about long-term stability, especially if the trailer will sit in one spot for months or years.If you're still deciding between a fifth wheel and other setups, our guide on what a park model RV is breaks down how permanent-site living compares to towable options.Tools and Materials You'll NeedBefore you start, gather the basics:Leveling blocks (the interlocking brick style is easiest to stack and holds together well).Wheel chocks, ideally rubber rather than plastic if you're stacking any height under the tires.A bubble level or carpenter's level, either built into the RV or a separate handheld one.Wood shims for fine-tuning height once blocks are in place.Pier blocks or treated lumber if you're blocking for a seasonal or permanent site.Skip anything makeshift like loose bricks or stacked cinder blocks without wood on top. Owners in RV forums consistently point out that concrete blocks should always have a wood buffer between the block and the steel frame, since stacking concrete directly against steel can crack the blocks over time.Step 1: Level Side to Side FirstSide-to-side leveling always comes before anything else, and it should happen while the trailer is still hitched to the truck. Set your level on the floor of the RV or on a straight piece of trim outside, and check which side sits lower.Once you know which side needs help, place your leveling blocks in front of the tires on that side (or behind them, depending on which direction you'll be pulling). As a rule of thumb, you'll need roughly one block for every notch your level shows you're off. Pull forward slowly until the tires rest on top of the blocks, then chock the wheels to keep the rig from rolling back off.If you have an automatic leveling system built into your fifth wheel, don't skip this step. Auto-leveling systems are designed for small adjustments, not for correcting a severe side-to-side lean. Trying to make the system do all the work on a steep site is a common way to strain the hydraulics.Step 2: Level Front to BackOnce the sides are even, unhitch from the truck and check the front-to-back level. Place your level on the floor again, or on the trim if that's easier to read. Whichever direction the bubble needs to move is the direction the front of the camper needs to rise or drop.For most fifth wheels, this is handled with the landing gear or an electric leveling system rather than additional blocks. If you're using manual landing gear, crank it up or down until the level reads flat. If you have a power drill adapter for your landing gear, this step goes a lot faster than doing it by hand.Step 3: Add Frame Blocking for Longer StaysThis is the step that separates a quick overnight setup from a seasonal or permanent one. If you're parking your fifth wheel at a site for the season, or setting it up somewhere it will sit for months, adding blocking under the frame reduces the load on your tires and axles and cuts down on the bounce you feel walking around inside.The most common approach used by long-term RVers is to place pier blocks under the frame rails near the front and back of the unit, then add another set roughly every 6 to 8 feet along the length. Spring hanger locations tend to be solid spots for this kind of blocking, since those points are already built to support the unit's weight while it's moving down the road.A few things to keep in mind:Don't try to take all the weight off the tires. Most experienced owners recommend leaving the tires resting lightly on wood blocks rather than lifting the frame completely clear, since the wheels still provide meaningful stability.Always put wood between concrete pier blocks and the steel frame. This protects both the blocks and the frame from cracking or denting under pressure.Use screw jacks or adjustable piers to fine-tune the height once the main blocking is in place, rather than trying to get it perfect with stacked lumber alone.If you're considering a driveway or home setup instead of a campground or seasonal lot, take a look at our article on parking an RV in your driveway before you commit to a spot, since local rules vary more than most owners expect.Step 4: Stabilize the CamperStabilizing comes last, after the trailer is already level. Fifth wheels typically have stabilizer jacks at the rear corners, and these exist to cut down on movement while you're inside, not to lift or level the RV. Cranking a stabilizer jack past a light, snug fit is one of the most common ways owners accidentally bend a jack or put stress on the frame.If you're setting up for a full season, some owners add a second stabilizer point near the kingpin to reduce front-to-back sway, since walking around near the front of a long fifth wheel can create noticeable movement even with the rear jacks engaged.One safety note worth repeating: never extend a slide-out until the trailer is fully level front to back. A slide extended on an unlevel frame can come off its tracks, which usually means a repair shop visit to get it running smoothly again.tracks, which usually means a repair shop visit to get it running smoothly again.Common Mistakes to AvoidA few blocking mistakes show up again and again in owner forums and RV service shops:Skipping the side-to-side leveling step and relying entirely on an auto-leveling system. These systems make small corrections, not major ones.Using stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer instead of just snugging them against the frame.Blocking directly on concrete without a wood buffer, which can crack both the block and the pad over time.Forgetting wheel chocks, especially when using taller stacks of leveling blocks.Extending slide-outs before the unit is level, which risks damaging the slide mechanism.When to Call a ProfessionalBasic leveling and stabilizing is well within reach for most fifth wheel owners, but full frame blocking for a permanent site is a bigger job. If you're setting up a fifth wheel that will stay in place for a year or longer, especially in a location with heavy snow, uneven ground, or a septic and utility hookup already in place, it's worth having an experienced installer check your plan before you start stacking blocks. A poorly blocked frame can lead to cracked skirting, stuck doors, or slide-out problems that are far more expensive to fix than the setup itself.How Long Will Your Fifth Wheel Stay Parked?How much blocking you need depends heavily on how long the fifth wheel will stay in one place.A few nights: Focus on getting the trailer level side to side and front to back, chocking the wheels, and using the stabilizer jacks to reduce movement.Several weeks or a season: Consider additional support under the frame to reduce bounce and take some of the load off the tires and suspension.Several months or longer: A more permanent blocking setup with properly spaced support points may make sense, especially if the RV will remain connected to utilities or be used as a seasonal residence.If you are planning to spend months at a time in your RV, the fifth wheel itself matters just as much as the setup. See our guide to the best RV brands for full-time living for models and manufacturers better suited to extended use.Buying or Selling a Fifth WheelWhether you're setting one up for the first time or getting ready to move on to something new, having the right information upfront makes the process smoother. If you're selling a fifth wheel you've had parked at a seasonal site, our guide on tips for preparing your RV for sale covers what buyers actually look for. And if your fifth wheel came from north of the border, check out our article on selling a Canadian RV in the USA before you list it.Ready to find your next fifth wheel or list the one you're ready to part with? Browse current fifth wheels for sale on Pop Sells and connect directly with sellers across America.Frequently Asked QuestionsHow Many Leveling Blocks Do I Need for a Fifth Wheel?Most owners need somewhere between one and three blocks per side, depending on how far off level the ground is. As a rule of thumb, use one block for every notch your bubble level shows you're off. If you find yourself needing more than three or four blocks on one side, it's usually a sign you should reposition the trailer rather than keep stacking.Can I Use Regular Cinder Blocks to Block Up a Fifth Wheel?You can, but always place a piece of wood between the concrete and the steel frame. Concrete blocks pressed directly against metal can crack under the weight and shift over time, especially with the vibration from wind or foot traffic inside the RV.Do Stabilizer Jacks Lift a Fifth Wheel Level?No. Stabilizer jacks are designed to reduce bounce and movement once the trailer is already level, not to lift or level it. Using them for that job can bend the jacks or put unnecessary stress on the frame. Leveling should always happen first with blocks and landing gear, with stabilizers added only at the end.Is It Safe to Take the Tires Completely Off the Ground When Blocking for a Seasonal Site?Most experienced owners recommend leaving the tires resting lightly on wood blocks rather than lifting the frame fully clear of the wheels. The tires still add meaningful stability, and removing that support entirely increases the risk of the trailer shifting on its piers.How Often Should I Check My Blocking Once It's Set Up?Check it periodically throughout the season, especially after heavy rain, freezing temperatures, or any ground shifting. Soil compresses and settles over time, so blocking that was level in the spring may need a shim adjustment by fall.